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As a result, I've been to the Doe's in Oxford and the one that was once in Tupelo. I can only presume the continued track of franchise failures has something to do with lack of brand oversight. Never made it to the one in Starkville, but evidently it shared the same problem.

Doe's in Greenville, without launching into a sermon, has a lot of history and character, and the folks who work there have typically been in their jobs for many, many years. I don't know the family, but it's clear whoever does the quality control there knows their business. I like everything about the place -- from the broiled steaks and black skillet-fried home fries to the Doe's salad, down to the way there's a guy stationed outside the building to "watch the cars." (Nelson Street isn't exactly the safest locale in America.) When you walk into the restaurant, you enter through the kitchen. The guy cooking the steaks is on your right and the broiler doing the cooking is on your left. Squeeze between the ladies mixing the salad and the mamaw standing over the frying pans, sit at a table with mismatched salt and pepper shakers on a vinyl tablecloth. No liquor license, but you can bring in your own. They have cold beer and good sweet tea. Get there early in the evening if you're a porterhouse fan because they run out of those first. Steaks usually in the 2- to 4-pound range. Excellent tamales. Have a great meal and watch your ass when you leave.

The franchised or licensed locations have all been dissappointments to me of varying degrees. Evidently they acquire a license to be a Doe's but don't receive much in the way of direction beyond that.